Azelaic Acid

INCI: Azelaic Acid. Azelaic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid occurring naturally in grains such as wheat and barley. In formulation it functions as a tyrosinase inhibitor and an antioxidant, and is used in products targeting the evenness of skin tone and the appearance of dark marks.

Key Aspects & Usage of Azelaic Acid:

Synonyms/Related Components: Often referred to by its chemical name, it is a type of dicarboxylic acid. A more hydrating derivative used in some formulations is Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD).

Keratinisation: It slows the build-up of dead skin cells at the surface, supporting the appearance of clear, even-textured skin.

Skin comfort: Used in formulations targeting the appearance of visible redness and reactive-looking skin.

Skin tone: It inhibits tyrosinase, reducing melanin synthesis, and is used in formulations targeting the evenness of skin tone and the appearance of dark marks.

Usage Frequency: Suited to once- or twice-daily leave-on use, and commonly formulated for sensitive skin and as an alternative where retinoids are not tolerated.

Concentrations: Typically formulated at 5–10%; strengths of 15–20% sit outside cosmetic use.

Pairing: Compatible with niacinamide, vitamin C and retinoids; use with caution alongside other acids.

In the formulation: supports skin comfort, contributes to the evenness of skin tone and the appearance of skin texture, with low irritation potential at typical use levels.

Commonly formulated into products targeting visible redness, oily or congested-looking skin and the appearance of residual marks.