Allantoin

INCI: Allantoin (CAS 97-59-6 · EINECS 202-592-8)

A fine white crystalline powder and one of the most widely used soothing agents in skincare. Nature-identical and produced synthetically, so it carries none of the batch-to-batch variability of a plant extract.

Allantoin is valued for its conditioning and softening effect on the skin's surface. It has a mild keratolytic action, helping loosen and shed surface dead skin cells, which is why formulations containing it tend to feel smoother and more comfortable in use. It is a standard inclusion in products for sensitive or easily reddened skin, after-sun and post-shave preparations, nappy creams, lip balms, hand creams and scalp treatments.

Formulating with it

• Use level: 0.1–2%. Most formulations sit at 0.2–0.5%.
• Solubility: Water soluble, but only to around 0.5% at room temperature — above that it can stay cloudy or recrystallise on standing. Dissolve into the water phase with heat (above 50°C) for higher loadings.
• pH: Stable across pH 3–8.
• Add to: The heated water phase.

Cosmetic grade. For external use in cosmetic formulation only. Not for internal use.